For my first contact with the hustle and bustle of the market, I accompanied Fanta, the Senegalese wife of the (French) pâtissier, and her son. We didn’t leave very early and didn’t run our way there seeing as she’s nearly 8 months pregnant and that El Hadji is a 19 month-old toddler, but it was a very nice introduction.
Lonely Planet says that it’s the 4th interesting thing (out of 27) to do in Gambia so I can now tick that box. Did I mention that out of these 27, Victoria Hospital is in 5th, the ferry terminal is in 9th, 22nd July Square is 13th, a night club is 16th, then from 22 onwards, there are snack-bars, restaurants and other CD and tape vendors. Quite a strange selection! If the town square where you live is good enough to make the ‘interesting attractions’ selection despite taking but a few minutes to visit, that means that we’ve nearly completed the tour of attractions to see or to do… in 2 months !!! OK, holidaymakers are only here for 1 or 2 weeks and are here mostly for the 100% guaranteed sun and heat, but all the same some are now on their 6th, 13th if not 20th visit.
I can’t wait to do the 3 that remain :)
The Gambia is “enclosed” by Senegal. This means that the people are practically in the same tribes and use the same languages with similarly few linguistic nuances as would separate the Swiss and the French.
It was great to be there with Fanta as she would ask the price and negotiate whilst I would listen in, observe and appreciate the process. She made me discover a strange fruit, the ‘sweet detar’ (detarium senegalense – top right). In a shell, this green and round fruit is rich in vitamin c and smells like what reminded me of sorrel… in taste as well actually. It has a large stone so you must remove the shell and suck the fibrous pulp. Someone here told me that it cleans teeth. You can make it into juice by leaving the fruit in water for a few hours to separate the then swollen pulp from the stone.
Due to the heat, there are always water pouch vendors who sell them for D1 (€0.02/£0.02/$0.03 – bottom right). The plastic bag is widely used for everything and the big worry is that after use, people simply throw it negligently on the ground.
To get to the market, you must take narrow alleyways through which a path must be frayed. We started on the food side with much produce (spices, smoked and unsmoked fish, fruit etc) on a tarp or on plastic, even on the ground. Life is very interesting in this den and it’s very interesting to observe the circus of people who sell, who buy or who walk around.
A guy was even carrying around a bunch of planks with jutting nails (top right). Mind your head those in front… behind… and even on the sides in case he decides to turn!!!
Further on, we run into sculptors who work ‘live’, which is fascinating to see. For photos, you have to ask. Most will say “yes,” some “no,” especially in the weavers quarter (middle right), and some “do you have money?” (especially in the weavers quarter!!!). In this quarter, there’s a huge roofed courtyard with concrete stands where the workers each have their small location next to one another. You can’t imagine the number of weavers that there are in this market. They’re here in their hundreds, as well as a large number in their own little 2m x 3m boutiques in which you can sometimes see 4 tables or more with sewing machines.
When you go deeper into the alleyways, you reach handcraft boutiques. The people kind of all sell the same thing, but the craftsmanship is rich all the same. The cloth bags are very popular. What I found pleasing is that many are real craftsmen and not only resellers. They paint, sew their bags, craft bracelets or leather shoes in front of your eyes. You can easily find your joy in this charming market.
One point however; it’s a good idea to go there with company otherwise, as is the case on the beaches, you will be constantly approached which is annoying after a while. The guides in yellow know the area very well and are an information mine which is a plus that you wouldn’t find on your own (D250 for the morning, €6.35/£5.30/$8.30). They will take you to each nook and cranny if you so wish.
On the way there from the Atlantic Hotel, go via the main road, but come back through the beach. It only takes a quarter of an hour to twenty minutes to get there so it’s not too far away. Even if you’re pressed for time, you can easily get there and back whilst having a good look around.
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