Un cadeau peu ordinaire

   We left the Chartreuse behind just for a quick visit to our Great British neighbours, where a nice surprise was waiting for us. Our birthday present was hair-raising !

   In Regent’s Park, the “Gorilla Circus” flying trapeze school (gorillacircus.com) had set up shop for the summer, where you can go for a 2-hour session. Cool, I had tried it 10 years ago at the Club Med and had since dreamed of doing some more. The sensations are super and I take great pleasure in it.

   Of course, you mustn’t have a fear of heights. Firstly, we practised hanging from a trapeze, 2 metres from the ground. Then we climbed the tall, very tall ladder. As with the treetop adventure park, we’re always safely harnessed so no risk of ending up like a pancake on the ground☺

   The three guys were tip top and it was just a case of following their instructions.

 1 – We launch ourselves off 2 – and hop, we bring the legs to the bar 3 – we let our arms go to hang (left) 4 – we bring the arms back up 5 – we brings the legs back down (right) then we use our momentum to let go and land after 1 or 2 somersaults.

   So much fun, really, and I loved it, I swear… even if my internal ear played a nasty trick on me. Spinning round and round like on the Magic Roundabout doesn’t make me as apt as Zebedee, and I found myself feeling rather flat. After each go, waves of nausea would increase in strength and on the last one, I could no longer resist. Thankfully, I had time to come down from the net – though without somersaulting this time – and touch terra ferma. An ambulance had to be called because my legs… and body, had given up. They don’t realise how much your heart and stomach churns, and the journey to the hospital was therefore torture. Beurk ! Still, all is now well, just a few anti-nausea pills and I should be back up and running in no time.

   A big thumbs-up to the English emergency services who, before taking us to hospital, asked us where we lived, so that we could go to the closer of the two nearest hospitals. Reading was our answer so one close to Paddington (a superb piece of architecture by the way, and the subject of a blog of its own. London still has many marvels to reveal !). St. Mary’s hospital was chosen, just a stone’s throw from the station. All’s well that ends well.

    Still, this damn internal ear needs to be looked into because I loved the trapeze and would like very much to go again… though not in the near future ☺. If you are around the area, it’s such a fun activity, and Anton-E was on cloud nine. On the last try, he even managed to grab on to the forearms of the other trapezist and let go… me ? well, nearly, because at that stage, I was already quite “out of it” !

       23/08/2012 Regent's park, London

Papillon mon bel ami...

   This summer, we saw a wide range of butterflies of all colours and everywhere, be it “in” and around the house, or on one of our mountain hikes.

   This magnificent speciment, which is of a larger size than the others (35-40mm), is the Mountain Apollo (Parnassius apollo). Its white is very surprising and we were lucky that it landed on some flowers and let us photograph it. We saw a few with different shades (bodies with more or less dark), and two, more or less coloured (red-orange) rosettes (circles) on the posterior wings.

   It’s one of the species that is getting rarer and is protected. It can only be found over an altitude of 1300m as it needs sunshine to fly but also a cool atmosphere to live. The heating up of its environment is pushing it towards the North or higher up the mountains. It loves the nectar of purple flowers and prefers centaurea, thistle, and scabiosa.

13/08/2012 Près de la Grande Vache -  La Sure - Chartreuse

Tour de France in St Pierre d'Entremont

   In mid-July, the Tour de France passed in the area, and more precisely, at St Pierre d’Entremont, a dozen kms from where we live. First comes the caravan in the late-morning, then the cyclists about one and a half hours later. We therefore settled down with our cooler and our small seats on the edge of the village road as there was a good atmosphere. 

The caravan is varied ... 

and the vehicles are often very original

   For half an hour, keyrings, caps and other goodies were distributed. We got some Haribo, madeleines, and some water, as well as caps, and a keyring equipped with an LED. Cool ! Our juvenile spirit resurfaced. Though it’s only we who found ourselves back in childhood as the sponsors are trained, and spot the real kids, aiming at them directly, which meant that we didn’t get any Cochonou this year. Next time, I’m taking the neighbour’s children with me ☺ !!

Before the real yellow jersey holder, the caravan presented us its own.

Come one, step on the gas !

   Some really good times were had, especially because the cyclists had just passed the Col du Granier, which meant that we didn’t have just one pack, but many different groups that prolonged the pleasure.

13/07/2012 Tour de France à Saint Pierre d'Entremont Isère

Spot the odd one out

Go on, take off your wig, we’ve spotted you !!!

19/07/2012 Le Charmant Som

Pas de croix... à la Pinéa

   This year, we’re taking on summits that we neglect too often but that still offer us some superb views. 

From the house, the Pinéa looks like a small, nude point !

   Once again, there are several starting points : just above Sarcenas, by the Col de Porte, or, our more tranquil choice, by the Orgeval observatory (1634m)… which will offer up a cross. Much shorter, but we’re not trying to break any records. From the observatory, very close to the starting point of the Charmant Som, we’re only 137m less in altitude that the top !!!

   And, yes, it’s a hike along the Montfromage crest with climbs and dips and many nice views over the surrounding areas. When it’s very hot, it’s ideal due to its forest sections, though not too many so we don’t feel suffocated. We even passed next to the top of the ski-lift that I used to take in my ski competition days. It’s even on this slope that I achieved the best score in the ‘slalom’ (163 at the end of the season)… the year when I had excessively curved ski-tips. Ah, what a great time that period was ! 

Vibrantly coloured cornflowers ...

and the thistles enchant us !

Diving towards joy !

   At the foot of the last, steep and unforested climb, we found a large rock perfect for our wanderings. It gives the impression that we’re on the edge of a precipice, but don’t fret : that’s not the case !

Not easy to be horizontal !

   The supreme reward is seeing some chamois. From the top, go towards the left, towards the Vercors and Sassenage, and keep an eye open at the bottom and around the rockery as they are often in this area, far from walkers (one in the grass on the far left, and one in the rockery on the far-right, left photo). We see very well without having to take any unnecessary risks by going too close to the edge. Watch out all the same !

   All the way at the top (right), there’s not much space, rocks, no cross but a magnificent 360˚ view over the whole of the Chartreuse, the Vercors and over to the Aiguille du Midi. Seen from this angle (left), Chamechaude seems totally different than what we see from home where it shows off its point.

19/07/2012 La Pinéa

Cadeau !

This magnificent aerial flower, which seems both fragile and solid, is the dandelion.

Des compagnons "grivelants"

   When we cut the grass, we always need to have high-sided boots and trousers as we never know who we’ll come across. The small field mice normally make a quick getaway and the butterflies flutter away…

   Sometimes, we make some more unusual acquaintances. However, this year we were treated to quite a few rampant encounters. On the 20^th of June, in the middle of the cut burdock field, an anguis poked its nose above the grass. At first glance, we just identified it as “snake” so decided to put it in a box and bring it far away.

   Finally, as we had taken the time to take some pictures, we found out that it was just an anguis (anguis fragilis). We didn’t want to keep it for too long in the box but in the end, we could have left it alone in its zone as there’s no risk of being bitten by it. Also, it doesn’t like to live close to vipers, so having an anguis is synonymous of “no viper here.” In fact, it’s not a snake; it’s classified as a ‘legless lizard’ ! You can see the nuance with the snake I’m sure.

   Just like a lizard, it can, in case of danger, leave a bit of its tail behind (from which it takes its name of ‘glass worm’ due to the fragility of it). It can only do that once however as the new growth is shorter, darker and more rigid.

   Skipping forward a bit of time (until the 4^th of July), at the foot of the steps, I arrive at 20cm from a snake, a real one this time and I’m paralysed… 1 second… then I shout “Anton snake” as he was off finding the wandering cows slightly higher up the mountain. I go off to fetch the camera but he arrives and there’s nothing left at the foot of the stairs.

   Snake = potential death so there’s no chance of letting this charming creature be in the neighbourhood. I knew that having a pile of rocks was not a good idea ! Patiently, and with goosebumps all over, I help to move the rocks with a big stick and suddenly there he is (left), coiled and hidden away. "You, my friend, are going to go have a look at the adjacent field to see if the grass is greener". He even left some scale-marks on a stone (top-right).

   As it seemed to go forward quite slowly, the ‘snake on a stick’ solution seemed like the right one to get rid of it. It seemed to have eaten quite a bit as its stomach is slightly fatter. Some adjustments to calibrate where to hold it with the stick and off it goes for a 100m journey ‘hanging’ on the stick. Well, he fell off a few times of course, but what brings ice to the veins is that it seems to “speed”, though slowed down, right back at us (bottom-right).

   And killing it ? Oh yes, it’s a solution, but neither Anton-E nor I have the heart to do it and after all, there’s enough space for everyone… though far from one another.

   I, who had only seen snakes two or three times over the course of 23 years, was well served with regards to serpents. On the 6^th, I climb the stairs with my arms full and, close to the top, I see an aspic viper (vipera aspis, left) in the grass. Dammit, we got rid of one, and now the spouse is probably looking for it ! "Anton snake". This time, it’s swiftly decided that it will go to meet its spouse in the adjacent field. To improve their surroundings, we even put down some rocks. The snake was nice and warm from the sun, and was therefore faster than the previous one, though still nowhere near the human walking pace. When it falls off of the stick, it comes back towards us quicker than the other one… so I backpedal asap. The brave one is Anton-E who, with his long stick, catches it and catches it again with as delicately as possible.

   But hey, you say, why is it in a box (right) ?

   Well… that’s the 3^rd act in this aspic viper tale.

The viper… the comeback !

   Here we are. Anton-Emmanuel keeps an eye on things as he thinks that there could be some others and lo and behold, on the 8^th, he spots one hidden under the concrete in front of the entrance. Strange, how strange it all is ! Is it possible that the viper came back and that there is only one ? We can’t really blame her, it’s really hot here in the sun, and in the fields, it’s all humidity and shadow so the choice is made. No means of dislodging it and tomorrow we travel South, so we’ll have to keep an eye open.

   Once it’s time to go… in a rush… the next day, here she is, warming the tip of her snout in the grass by the side of the house. We had devised an action plan in advance and it will be a long-distance travel in a box. The first, perfect box, is a logistical problem as it doesn’t fit into the car and we’re in a rush.

   Finally, our aspic, duly indexed, which we confirmed by photograph that it’s the same one with its cat’s eyes that make me shudder when it seems to look right at me, will travel 2km in the car with his nose over the box. After having placed her in a sunny area with some wooden planks and rocks, I breathe a sigh of relief as I doubt she can slither so far.

   We had a lucky escape as Jean-Louis, seeing the photos, confirmed that the small protuberant belly must mean that she was with child of several baby vipers. Do you imagine, between 4 and 15 of the critters frolicking in front of our door ? Ouh, now, breath easy :)

Roboratif

   We may be in the summer, but we’re not always here to enjoy the local produce and if we’re tempted by a winter dish, then so be it… we’ll feast.

   All French person abroad will say that what they miss is most probably a good cheese. To each their region, and we like our ‘tommes’ but also very much the ‘reblochon’ that marries well with potatoes and cold cuts for a tartiflette or reblochonnade, though which is also excellent, as you can see above, with ‘crozets’ this strange small pasta crafted in Savoie.

   Cook the crozets and place them in a gratin dish with diced ham (I don’t much like lardon as the reblochon is already salted enough and that would add too much to the dish). Place the reblochon, which you have cut in half across the middle, on top. Cook for 15 minutes at 180 and make sure that the top has slightly browned towards the end. Serve with some green salad and a nice little Savoie wine. What a pleasure !

fg

La Grande Sure ... ou presque

   It has been quite some time since I’ve climbed the Grande Sure. In fact, a good fifteen years since they had closed the road connecting Currière to Charmettes. This year, we wanted to try it and, being next to it, didn’t want to have to drive via Quaix on a winding road.

   Now, the weather was good, the decor as well, but the climb was frankly too long. Parked (A) just after the monastery, we immediately took a right (D) onto a forest road (B). The advantage is that the start wasn’t too steep, though on the other hand, we needed three hours just to arrive “Au bas de la Prairie” (1490m).

   We allowed our gaze to wander and follow the numerous butterflies, and particularly a magnificent and rather large dragonfly (Golden-ringed Dragonfly).

   In 1 hour, we arrive at our 2^nd cross of the season, on the Belvédère de None, 1200m…

… that gives us a superb view over Saint Laurent, Miribel, all the way to Entre-deux-Guiers, and even further. "Hello, Suze & Louis, there’s no-one in the garden today ?”

   Now on towards the Cul de Lampe (1400m). You mustn’t be afraid of heights or of falling in Chartreuse as we often pass in very steep and craggy places that can seem very impressive, but are so beautiful !

   It’s the high season for flowers and we admired some anemones (left), St Bruno’s Lily (middle) or Centaurea jacea (bottom-right). For the “fluff”, I’ll need to get some more information to identify it.

   Once you arrive at the foot of the prairie, beware, go to the left where the derelict house is. We decided to go right towards the sheep park on the mountain’s flank, but after a while, we couldn’t see any yellow markings on the rocks, and indeed no more path. Thinking that we had just strayed from the road slightly, we powered on between jagged rocks and big boulders. Not easy, not prudent should I say, as on this broken terrain, it took us a good half hour to get out.

   In the end, it’s after 4 hours and dust that we reached the bottom of the final, 45‑minute climb. Hunger, fatigue and the perspective of a long, but not as long as the climb, descent stopped us in our tracks. That’ll be it for today; we’ll stop at the Col de la Sure, 1675m.

  

   We heard, but didn’t see, quite a few marmots, so I decided to take some pictures and then look through them at home on the computer. And then, what a surprise it was when I spotted some brown, but my marmot had horns and actually there were quite a few. In the end, I spotted no less than 17 Bighorn Sheep in my pictures. What a discovery !

   In the Belledonne range, they have some, but they also have wolves… more than we do in any case, and the latter decimate the population of these magnificent mountain goats – said a man who we met a few days later at the top of the Pinéa. Not glop !

   What a strange decor on the Col de la Sure that seems to be bare in certain places. We may as well have been in Balmedie, in Scotland.

   For the return trip, we wanted to take a shorter route and left from the Col de la Charmille (1605m). In the prairie, we heard a small noise and all of a sudden saw wild boar go by with their stripped marcassins. Judging by the height of the plants, if they hadn’t moved, we wouldn’t have even seen them !

   Finally, we saw that it was a better idea to take the long route to go up, as the return journey was rapid what with the steep descent. Better to go down this way than to go back up it, and if we took 4 hours to walk up, it only took us 2 and a half to go down, even without running.

  I smell home ! 

      When we arrive above the monastery, we know that the end of the walk is close and that we can savour this beautiful day with our feet in the air, thinking about our intrepid escapade amidst the rocks. In fact, we crossed a couple who had spotted three people in the middle of nowhere and had wondered how to take that road. Well, go the wrong way, my friends, and you’ll be close to the bighorn sheep and the other marmots that you will probably not see either. But who knows; you may catch them in an impromptu photo… quick, go back to your albums and zoom in, you may have some nice surprises.

                                        28/06/2012 Currière - Col de la Sure par None and the Cul de Lampe

Our crossed paths

   I like the symbolic arrival at the top of a mountain and seeing the cross. I don’t think of it as a religious sign and what it could symbolise in that respect, I just think of it as what we have managed to finish, and that we have done it. Not always easy to all be in the same photo; luckily, there are often people to help. The tripod is not part of our hiker’s gear so we do what we can; we turn on the timer and run to be in position.

   This one will probably be the easiest of the summer, because from Bettex (above St Gervais) we used the cable car to go to Mont d’Arbois. Then, 20 minutes by foot on a road and here we go ! One down !

   The Mont Blanc range is a great discovery for us. It can be seen from quite a few summits in the Chartreuse, but we had never had the chance to walk about in the actual area – except for once about 20 years ago in the Montenvers train. How magnificent these snow-capped peaks are ! 

How could you ever get used to a view like this ?

The panorama allows us to see the bigger picture.

   Hiking is all well and good, but the most important is to have fun, and if the fancy takes us, we say “why not do some sport”. Something to remain zen ! Célia also mimed the notion that we were on ski slopes… “But you’ll have to turn around this winter if you want to go down the right way ☺!"

  "Huuuuuummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm" 

   From the Mont Joux (whose cross stands at 1843m of altitude) in Bettex via the Grand Montaz (1673m) and the Communailles, it was a descent by the “ski slopes” amidst the small flowers of every colour though with certain dominant ones

… white…

   Narcissus-flowered anemone (top-left), Common Cottongrass (top-right), and us… amidst the flowers !

... yellow ...

Bird's-foot Trefoil (top-left), Oxytropis campestris (bottom-left) Kingcup (or Marsh Marigold) (middle) ou Globe-flower (right).

... or purple  ...

Orchid, Nettle, Alpine toadflax (bottom-right) or Alpine flax (top-right)   

   The region did a good job in imposing wood for the houses as these chalets blend in perfectly with the decor and add to the alpine charm. Ah if only St Pierre de Chartreuse could have a similar unity, our little village would improve in so many ways !

   A bit of humour with Paul’s joke that you need to read (in French) out loud as the play on words is oral and not written : “Oh un arbre à six troncs !”. Well I can tell you that it destabilised more than one ☺☺☺

   The second hike of the season should have been the next day in Chamonix, but the evening cloud over the Mont Blanc announced some bad weather – a prediction that turned out to be true. The next day, the visibility was reduced to just about 500m so we had to throw out our ideas of seeing the Aiguille du Midi; we decided to return to Our mountains and planned to quickly return to our hiking shoes and discover fauna, flora and “crossed” peaks.

24/06/2012