In Technicolour

   Most animals in the Fathala reserve come from Senegal. The zebras, on the other hand, can only be found in eastern or southern Africa, from where originate those in Fathala.

   As they don’t have horns, they’re kept in a separate part of the big reserve and are used to seeing vehicles driving close-by. Leaving the vehicle is not allowed without authorisation from the guardian/guide that accompanies you. The zebras are herbivores and, due to the dry season, receive hay to complement their intake. In the wild, they live in a harem of six females accompanied by their foals with a defending male, though here there were no fights for supremacy. We had the chance to see a baby of hardly a week of age with his mother ! 

  

   These stripes are really beautiful. They differ from one individual to the next but also depending on the region of origin. The neat crop of the crest makes it look like they trim themselves.

   The marvel among marvels for colour is without doubt the Abyssinian Roller. We managed to capture it in action and savour the beauty of its coloured flight. What fantastic wings ! What a body ! What beauty !!!

Who goes there in Fathala ?

   Every outing is kind of an adventure here. It’s time for us to escape our “island” for a while and discover a more “bestial” part of Africa. As there aren’t many safari animals in The Gambia, other that hippopotami, we travelled to Fathala in Senegal, a half hour from Barra, for our first “expedition”.

   

   From Banjul, you must take the ferry to Barra by foot because it would be very hard to cross with your car due to the few crossings and the incredible number of vehicles waiting to cross in the neighbouring roads.

   The crowd gets on (top-left) or gets off (bottom-right) at the same time as the cars – not an easy task. During the trip, people are everywhere: on the bridge, in, on, in front, behind, or next to vehicles without any regard for security (bottom-left). Two weeks ago, in arrival to Banjul, a boat violently rammed the port and a person had died, crushed between two cars. The next day, as if nothing had happened, people were back to the old habits. For us, it’s hard to understand, but that’s how they roll!

   The ferries are full to the point of saturation, are old, have holes, and advance… as well as they can. The crossing can only take half an hour in calm conditions, which is what happened for us… lucky devils, and can take over 3 hours… you’ll have to be patient if that’s the case. We had just left the port when we were accosted from all sides by vendors selling souvenirs or goods to buy (sweets, pencils, workbooks…) to "distribute in the villages" – or so they say.

   At the dawn, no sun, but an orange sky brought about by a sandstorm from the Sahara. In this case, everything – including us – is covered by a thin orange dust and the luminosity takes a hit (middle-top and -bottom). It apparently never lasts more than two days and probably allowed us not to bake under the sun in our open-top “safari” vehicle! Pascal tried to cover his mouth as our teeth started crunching with sand dust.

   Lamin “bird”, who accompanied us, booked the chauffeur and his old, nay, very old Land Rover Santana that seemed to be on its final legs. No working metres or petrol gauge, a petrol tank comprising of a 5 litre jerry can under the front passenger seat (middle) that forces the user to have another jerry can to fill it up en route. Luckily, there weren’t any predators in the reserve because between the two “breakdowns” that halted us for a few minutes each and the jerry can “siphoning” to fill the reservoir, we could easily have finished in the belly of a lion!!!

   In the three long seats that were on offer, we quickly had the backrest of the first row that fell right onto our feet (top-right), then it was the turn of our backrest to let go. It must be said that holding them with only one screw is very borderline!

   The entry and visit fee is 25,000 CFA which was £30 + D150. Why £’s? Well I have no idea. Lamin said that it would be £30. I thought that it would have been better to take CFAs from the get-go but why make things simple… when you can make the world a complicated place? What’s more, the fees are “promotions… for the year”, so why would you want to let this opportunity pass you by?

   The Fathala reserve (middle-left) is not huge, but it’s very well maintained and it was a real pleasure to discover African fauna for the first time.

   The reserve is 6000 hectares in size – 2000 of which can be visited having been opened to the public in 2003. It’s part of a larger protected zone (73,000 hectares – 60,000 marine and 13,000 on land). It’s 5 kms from the Gambian border and was created to preserve the environment, the fauna and flora, and to create jobs.

   Before going off to find the “real” animals, I present to you some ostriches that were in a pen (left) and quails (bottom-middle). There was only one water point and at this end of the dry season, the level was very low (bottom-left)! The wooden circle is a memorial that remains protected and maintained (top-left).

   The critters will be in the next episode…

Mon beau sabot !

   Here I am in France just at the right time of year to admire the magnificent lady’s-slipper orchids that we have near our home. I couldn’t resist sharing this beauty!

So cute !!!

  This is my favourite photo!

  This baby Northern White-faced Owl – Otus leucotis – appeared to no longer have any parents and, after noticing it alone it its nest, a local planter brought him to the Abuko rehabilitation centre. It’s a nocturnal bird of prey.

   No walk is complete without my pen and paper, and my camera. Lamin speaks rapidly and I must hurry to take notes if I don’t want to miss anything out. Opposite Abuko, there are fields that will soon be transformed into rice fields. Close to the many wells that have openings directly into the ground, we often see very nice dragonflies (bottom).

   From some types of palm trees, people extract syrup by attaching bottles to the notched trunk. When drunk quickly, this syrup is much enjoyed though it quickly turns into alcohol after only 2 days. After this transformation, muslims no longer drink it. This precious palm tree rum is an endangered species as it is very useful and served (and still does as a matter of fact) for roofs (leaves) and food (fruit).

   Over a century ago, elephants populated this land though none have lived in The Gambia since 1912.

  

1 - The Palm-nut Vulture - Gypohierax angolensis - is a black and white vulture. It could be mistaken for an eagle, especially in flight as it can beat its wings constantly without depending on upward air-currents like his “cousin” the Hooded vulture. It lives close to oil-bearing palm trees from which he feeds – a unique behaviour for a bird of prey. On some, though very rare, occasions, it will indulge in a hooded vulture.

2 & 4 - The African Jacana - Actophilornis africanus - is a small and common gold-breasted wader, well settled in The Gambia. It can be found in soft water areas as well as near plantations (rice, etc.) where it forages the ground with its beak to find small prey (insects and invertebrates).

3 - The Piapiac - Ptilostomus afer - is the local crow and lives in a group. He also likes, among other things, the oil-bearing palm tree fruit.

   In the breathtaking colours category, we have the Violet turaco - Musophaga violacea - who displays flamboyant red wingtips when in flight (1) and whose top of the head is red with a striking yellow “visor” (2). As with its cousin, the Western Plantain-eater (a grey turaco), it eats fruit (especially figs) and seeds.

   The Western Plantain-eater (4&5) is less spectacular colour-wise though also demonstrates a magnificent plumage in flight (3). It’s quite noisy and you can sometimes meet it in hotel gardens (Atlantic Hotel in Banjul). To the tip of its tail, it’s about 50cm long, and has a crest that it can raise up at will.

   One of my favourite categories is the kingfishers. In Abuko, we saw the Giant kingfisher (1&2 - Megaceryle maxima). It’s the largest one in Africa, measuring 48cm. It feeds on crabs, fish or amphibians. Its call is a strong and loud laugh, similar to that of the kookaburra that I had met in Cairns, Australia.

   High up in the sky, amongst the innumerable vultures, I noticed a different form; that of the Marabou stork (Leptotilos crumeniferus). Frequently spotted in The Gambia, Lamin says that it was the 1^st time that he had seen one in the area (South-Atlantic coast) as they are normally further inland. It’s impressive with its big beak, its wingspan of 1m60 to 2m50, and its weight of 9kg. It feeds mainly on carrion, though also pillages the nests of other birds (such as the flamingo). As is the case with herons, it flies with its neck pulled in.

A couple in Abuko

   On this beautiful… haha it’s always beautiful… April day, Lamin "bird" brought us to Abuko, a nature reserve with many birds, 3 species of monkeys, and hyenas. It also has a bird rehabilitation centre that cannot be visited. In the middle of the area, there’s a little bar (top-right) and a local crafts stand. The same things are on offer everywhere; masks, fabric bags, jewellery, all at “affordable” prices as we say nowadays.

   There are large ponds that must not be approached due to the abundance of crocs, though which allowed me to add to my heron photo list. Out of the 14 varieties on page three of the Gambia bird book, I’ve now ticked off 11. It just goes to show how easy it is to meet a large variety.

   We saw some strange plants which turned out to be mushrooms (top and bottom-left). I had often seen “concavities” in the sandy ground but did not know who or what was making them. Lamin explained that it was ant lion larvae that used this to attract insects who would “slip into the funnel”, allowing the ants to catch them.

   The only monkeys that we saw remained close to the bar as they knew that passers-by would buy peanuts there. Two Patak specimens were in a cage as well as a whole group of baboons. The green vervets were patiently waiting, all the while slowly coming closer every time I feigned reaching for my bag. You only have to show your two empty hands for them to stay put and wait quietly (top-right). On the other hand, there was a young and free baboon that tried to climb on top of me twice. This wasn’t very reassuring as I know that they can be more aggressive and can steal what is yours. In actual fact, this one was very well behaved and whilst I was observing the Pataks, he came towards me and had a peek into my sock (bottom-right).

1 - Anhinga rufa - African darter is a wader measuring in at just under a metre (wingspan of 115-128cm). It’s a common sight who mainly lives in freshwater areas, close to mangroves. It’s very dark with a brown neck. Its feet are webbed and it swims under the water with only its neck protruding from the surface – leading to its name of snake-bird. It dives, then brings its food back up to the surface before throwing it into the air and catching it in its beak so as to swallow it head first. In its youth, it’s much browner.

2 -  Aigretta alba measures just over a meter with a wingspan of 140-170cm. It uses a foot to disturb the water so that its prey – fish, crustaceans, and even small mammals – moves around or comes out. Then, it pierces them with its beak and can stay without moving for hours on end.

3 - Nyctorax nyctorax - Black crowned heron is a common one. It’s rather nocturnal though you can, on occasion, meet it during the day. It nests in colonies on branch-platforms in trees.

4 - Egretta intermedia - Intermediate egret is totally white with a yellow beak (except during the mating season when the beak becomes read with an orange tip). It hunts in shallow waters and prefers fish, insects, and crustaceans.

   The magic bird is the Squacco heron. When at rest on a branch, it is beige and sandy, but when it takes off and flies, you can practically only see white – its stomach and the bottom of its wings. It’s a rather small heron, measuring 44-47cm from the head the tip of the wings of the tail (body length of only 20/23cm). A migrant bird, it spends winter in Africa and comes back to nest in southern Europe or in the middle-east during the summer.

   Amongst the migratory birds, the youths who are yet to nest stay in Gambia until they reach sexual maturity. That is why we see many species all year round.

Les mangues se cachent pour mourir

   Here, the nights aren’t always a moment of calm. With the muezzin blaring out every morning, sometimes at 5 o’clock, sometimes until late at night, and with the monitor lizard who, it would seem, becomes very active between the top tile and the roof, we are often subject to “micro wake ups”. It’s strange to hear a big mass running around. I would have guessed a giant rat what with the comings and goings and the snuffling around the wiring, but the housekeeper says that it’s a monitor. The amount of noise makes me inclined to believe him. Now what is less reassuring is that these beasties climb trees. I wouldn’t dare leave to go out into the inner courtyard in case I find myself nose to nose with such a creature who had decided to use the mango tree as a ladder!

   Rarely during the day, though from the beginning of the evening, we also hear the sound of falling mangos, often “knocked about” by the tempted bats. It’s incredible how delicious they are here. Never do I find a spoilt one and they always have a fabulous, sugary taste. A real pleasure! I had had a similar experience with the victoria pineapple in Mauritius. No need to choose – it’s always perfect!

   I, who cherished my baby mango tree with its 20 fruit, now have to pick up 20 a day, not including those that are indulged in by birds. Nowadays, the distribution to the employees occurs almost daily. There’s a huge mango tree near their entrance that’s close to collapsing under the sheer weight of the fruit, though it’s bearing them slightly late.

   Ah, the chameleon didn’t lie, the rainy season may not have started just yet, but in any case, we’ve had some big thunderstorms during the night and we’ve woken to a grey sky and some rain on this 19^th of May. A rarity! Due to the omnipresent sand dust, the walls are dripping (bottom-right).

♪ Senior Météo ♫♪

   At the hotel, we have yellow-headed chameleons. When I arrived, the yellow was not very bright (top and bottom left) and the tail was grey. As we move towards summer, the colours become more vivid.

   Observe the purplish paws, the yellow head and tail segment. The tip remains black though more sharply so.

   The locals say that it’s a sign that the rainy season is nearly upon us.