Cadeau !

Have a good day !

A brand new...

...discovery!  

   Exiting Laming Lodge with Lamin is quickly done. The first by pirogue and the second by foot across the rice fields.

   In the « green » off season – ie the summer rains – the rice fields are used for other crops as you can see here – peppers, tomatoes, yam (3 igname) or sweet potatoes (5). Wells are dug into the ground and luckily, you don’t need to go too deep (4). Most of the land parcels are based on square monticules to allow irrigation all around.

   I discovered a tree that acts as a weather forecaster: the Honey locust tree (2 Parkia biglobosa – néré in Bambara). This flour tree, or Carob tree, makes long pods and can have 60-metre-long taproots, searching for water in the deeps. The locals keep an eye on its blossoming as when they see the tree blossom with balls/giant purple mimosa flowers (1), they know that the rainy season is just around the corner.

   The bees, whose mangrove honey is of high reputation, often swarm in the wild. Here, it was at the very top of a baobab – which makes getting the honey a difficult task (top-left and bottom). Amongst the birds we also saw … though as is often the case, from afar, a piapiac, a local crow (bottom-middle). The many water-points attract a fair number of dragonflies. Luckily, they prefer to frolic than to eat the brightly coloured vegetables ☺

   After the ricefields, we went close to habitations in the Darenka neighbourhood (top-left, bottom-right). Here, the depth of the wells surprised us (bottom-middle)! Giant termite nests (bottom-left), scattered around the area, are a common sight. We went along the Kumo Kunga lodge (middle-left) that has rooms for rent and also produces honey in its many beehives. A strange building remained a mystery to me (large photo). It wasn’t a house for sure judging by the small and grilled entrance. Lamin did not furnish me with an answer on this one.

    Four good hours of exploring… it’s time to head on home !

Lamin at Lamin Lodge

   

   On the back row of a minivan, there are 2/3 of a seat and 1. I find myself on the 2/3 next to a rather corpulent person and so I can only half sit for the 35 minutes of driving to Lamin Lodge. With my glutes tetanised, I’m thankful that it had not been for the 6-hour journey in the Thomas Cook charter plane because I would have ended up suffocated. Taking other people’s space…what nerve !

       Today, it’s therefore from Lamin Lodge that I will be discovering the birds and the nature of the mangroves. Upon arrival, we see the internet tree where the guides have painted their classifieds with the necessary contact information. Funny, but we already had to hire a guide just to get to this outback area ! Lamin Jobaate (gambiabirdingexplorers.com) is our guide and bird expert, and is based at the Atlantic Hotel.

   The water around the mangroves does not stagnate but flows peacefully with the tides. In Gambia, there are 6 types of mangrove, though in this area there is only the one. The boats belong to the local community and the people work for this “association”.

   The long mangrove woods are very much enjoyed as their high salt content-levels make them resistant to termites. The mangrove-tree’s leaves are used for dyeing and give different shades based on their maturity. Young shoots will give yellow tinges whereas fallen leaves will turn red after a week, eventually changing to brown after more time. Salt, sulphur and a colorant are added to the leaves to strengthen the dye. The leaf to fixes down the colour, and if the three “stages” of leaves are used together, you get some indigo… according to one of the pirogue’s two drivers.

   A very important activity in the sector is that of oysters, and women go alone or in groups, each with her own boat, deep into the mangrove (top-left) to claim their precious “treasure”. Oysters are sharp so those without shoes wrap their feet in fabric. They will not forget to also bring back some wood which will be used to cook the oysters (top-right and bottom). The grinded shells are added to salt water to make white paint. Add in some sand and you have the lime you need to make walls. To feed the birds, clay is added into the shells.

   The men go fishing, a nocturnal activity, or show tourists around in their pirogues or on their boats complete with “solarium” level.

   Once again, I saw the African Darter (Anhinga rufa), also known as the snake bird, from quite close. This last name comes from its long neck that it keeps out of the water when it swims. It has webbed feet and dives to catch fish and amphibians under the water. Once at the surface, it will throw the fish into the air in order to swallow it head first. Then, it rests for hours on end on its chosen perch, drying itself and observing its surroundings. The adult male is dark (top and bottom-left) and contrasts with the youth who is more sandy in colour (bottom-middle). It measures between 80 and 97 centimetres.

   A rare sight, due to its nocturnal habits, is the White-backed Night Heron (Gorsachius leuconotus). It likes the mangrove and soft water, and I managed to catch a glance of its large, circled eye hidden amongst the branches.

   Many are the Little Bee-eaters (1 – Merops pusillus) and the Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters (2 – Merops persicus). I love to see the Pied Kingfisher (3&4, Ceryle Rudis). This one is a male as it has two stripes on its torso.

   Then, back on solid ground, we saw a beautiful butterfly (5). No name for this one, sorry !

My 1st gambian sunset !

  As we are not facing west and the sun disappears either behind the hotel or some buildings, we never can enjoy the marvelous colours that a sunset has to offer.  Marc invited us to "his" Sheraton and we enjoyed this precious time.

Bijilo, a nature trail

Bijilo, charming section of forest 

  The advantage of the dry season is that there are many bear trees, which is useful for bird watching! This Little Bee-eater (Merops Pusillus) is beautiful and is easily recognisable.   

   Inevitably, we crossed the Green Vervets as this is their habitat.

   Mister Red Colobus doesn’t come down from his tree, but on that occasion, we saw a good few leaping from tree to tree, embracing one-another or just taking a nap. So cute!

On s'amuse de peu ...

1 – It's the A that makes me laugh

2 – Seen in Bakau, this wall tests people’s vision. Simply brilliant. Note that the E is bigger than the text below!

3 – Is he taking a nap or testing out which lot will be best for the future?

4 – Alone in the road, a red vision !

5 – The hotel gardeners decided that it was time to burn some greenery. Let us note in any case that:                       

a          .       They didn’t remove the plastic backs that contained certain rubbish.

b          .      They didn’t check the direction of the wind, leading to everyone getting smoked-up at around 17h.

c          .       “Everyone” included the President, and that they had to bring in a fire engine.

Ha, ha, ha you couldn’t make this up!

1 – Cleaning the street with the end of a stick in the middle of the day on a busy intersection.

2 – Also in the middle of the day ; a very special convoy in the middle of the road. Watch out in front… behind… and on the sides for that matter.

3 – A cracked windscreen is expensive to repair so the alternative is to place stickers, ha, ha, ha!

4 – Coming back home from school. Every transportation method is good and everyone finds their place… even standing up. Let’s hope that the driver doesn’t suddenly hit the brakes!

5 – This truck is already filled to the brim but they keep finding ways to add some more. Come on guys, only 450 boxes to go ☺

In the streets

   For seven months, there isn’t a drop of rain. Artisans therefore set up shop on the street itself.   

   It’s in Serrekunda where they are the most numerous and it’s always surprising to see the spread of seats and sofas. All trades can be found, be they ironmongers, mechanics, or, for the most part, bric à bracs.

   The other day, I went into Banjul with James, and seeing as his daughter Isatou, 4 ½ years old, had yet to go back to school, we went by to see his two children.

   When we go to Albert market, we can climb on the archway that serves as the entry. We can access it freely and there is no need for a guide. All you have to do is climb the staircase and you will arrive on this bridge with its “aerial” view over the market (bottom-right)

   When we drive around by car, we always come across donkey-pulled carts… more often than not going the wrong way. This seems to be a game here because many cyclists do the same. One day there was even a car who went a good 200m! It’s surprising and for a moment, we’re confused as to whether it is us who have taken the wrong road!!

Dog Island... take 3

   This time we are organised and we know how to cross over to Dog Island. Everything is… was… in place but a small grain of sand came to jam the mechanism that we thought was well oiled. The car that we were meant to take is immobilised and for a lunch, it’s a bit expensive to add D2500 (€55/£51/$83) for the taxi. The African boat has been booked so we decide to go round Barra anyway.

   At the hotel, Sarjo (lifeguard) has brothers in the trade and I had organised a private crossing. Expect to spend D2000 for a return journey. 

   The boat was waiting for us near the hotel’s beach and due to the level of the water, a guy “took care of us.” Pascal’s reaction (top-left) is too funny because he wasn’t aware of this: “What does this guy want with me?” he seems to say. The advantage is that you do not waste time going to the port and the crossing only lasts 20 to 25 minutes compared to the 40 minutes to 3 hours that it would take for the “ferry” on various days.

   

   The crossings are so common that the rates are of D10 (€0.25/£0.20/$0.33) for the ferry (bottom-right), D20 for the pirogue plus D5 for not getting your feet wet. However you must not mind being shoulder to shoulder with the crowd or being in an incredibly packed boat, not to mention subject to the quasi-non-existent security regulations.

   The guys still had to bail the water as there are always some small leaks. From afar (bottom-left), we enjoyed the coast, with the hotel on the right of the guy, and the president’s residency with its green and white striped building on the left. On the far left, we can see the port of Banjul.

     As is the case everywhere, there is sand, and not too much vegetation. The baobab however, thrives in this environment.

   In Gambia, there is a big culture of African boat and pirogue building. There was once the arrivals of fishermen but seeing as they would then have to cross over again to Banjul, the arrival zones for fishermen are nowadays more towards the port of Banjul or Tanji.

   Sarjo’s father is the ‘mayor’ of the area, the “Alkalo” (top-right). We went to say hello. He did not want to move to avoid the crowding because here, the moment a “toubab” talks with someone, stops on a market stall, he or she is relatively quickly encircled. He had his boat company to cross the estuary and many of his children are in the trade. He has four wives and a good number of children. Eight brothers and sisters for Sarjo, then 15, 7 and 8 with the other wives. That’s a lot of mouths to feed! Nowadays, the younger generation often only has one wife and two to four children.

   As mayor, he collects taxes and allocates “compounds” (parcels of built and unbuilt land) for a tax of D150 per year. If someone does not maintain their parcel and leaves it abandoned, the mayor has the power to take it back and to allocate it to someone else. He also acts as a conflict mediator. He remains present until each party is satisfied. If there is a problem, there can be a vote to elect a new Alkalo.

   Close to the communal wells (bottom-left), we met Sarjo’s mother and we also passed in front of his house (top-left). Each wife has her house in which she lives with her children… and eventually grandchildren and daughter-in-laws. Everywhere, the “earth” is nothing but sand; it’s crazy!

   In Barra, we noticed long lines of trucks and cars. We found out that they were queuing up to take the ferry. It’s a necessary passage to go from the North of Senegal to the South or to other southern countries such as Guinea-Bissau. Trucks can stay there, waiting, for over a week.

   That information made us less inclined to cross with our car if we would have to wait for two days to take the ferry back! We got a nice surprise when we saw a truck whose number plate was Senegalese, but whose insignia was of Guy Casset from Echelles (38 Isère, France). "Hey guys, if you’re looking for your truck, it’s ok, we found it!” It’s now living an African adventure ☺

   After abandoning James Island and founding Bathurst (Banjul), the English, who had obtained the River Gambia through the Treaty of Versailles in 1783, wanted to create a defensive zone on the other bank seeing as the canons did not shoot far enough to cover the eight miles that spanned the river. Fort Bullen was erected at Barra (top-right) around 1827. This allowed them to control all of the traffic that came and went through the River Gambia, particularly the slave trade that was still in full swing despite the abolition.

   The last photo (bottom-right) is of a Muslim cemetery.

Brufut with Lamin

   Here, we’re spoiled by the diversity of birds that we see and even if you can see them pretty much everywhere, it’s always nice to go with Lamin “bird” because he’s passionate and knows where to see the owl hiding in the tree. Also, from what I’ve seen to date, I wouldn’t go off in unknown parts without a guide. Even if they hide away because it’s hot, there is still a danger of rather impressive snakes!

   Brufut is one of Lamin’s projects that aim to help the local community to take care of their environment and particularly to bring tourists who pay D50 (€1.20/£1/£1.65) as well as a guide. The “most expensive” ones, the yellow-clad official guides in front of the hotel, are D250 for the morning or D350 for the day which comes to about €6 to €8 (£5.10 - £7.15/$8.30 - $11.65). Not very much and so very useful so as not to miss anything (more expensive at Senegambia – D400 and D800), though in this area, it’s better to have bird specialists, some of whom were trained here by Lamin.

     Brufut is a somewhat protected parcel of land. I say “somewhat” because it basically sums up to the association trying to explain to the locals the importance of preserving nature, of not trampling just anywhere, of cutting trees without consideration for the consequences, or of throwing rubbish away. On that final point, there is still work to be done when we see the number of “wild dumps.”

   I discovered a vast quantity of different birds and even those that looked like your bog-standard sparrow turned out to be a magnificent Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu (bottom, large photo). Very small and not growing over 12cm, they are of a pale blue with a touch of red on each cheek. The female’s colour is slightly less vibrant. It’s a rather common specimen that likes areas that are drier, cultivated and close to human habitations. It eats small seeds.

   I had never seen an owl in the wild. This Northern White-faced Owl was so cute (Otus leucotis – top-middle). A nocturnal bird, it spends its days sleeping amidst the branches.

   The Bearded Barbet (Lybius dubius – middle-right) can also be found in wooded areas. It’s very unique with its goatee and its beautiful black and red coat. It eats fruit.

   We also often come across butterflies, though taking a picture of them is a whole different story seeing as they are insatiable fliers (Scarlet red).

    I discovered: The African Golden Oriole (oriolus auratus – top-left), vibrantly yellow, very common and who makes hanging basket-shaped nests as the weaver bird does.

   The Little Bee-eater (Merops pusillus – top-right) is between 15 and 17cm and is very common in The Gambia. It eats insects – particularly wasps, bees or hornets – in mid-flight.  Before eating its prey, it removes the sting by hitting the insect against a hard surface.

   A bird that is impossible to spot without a pro is the Long-tailed Nightjar (Caprimulgus Climacurus – middle-right). A common bird, it can often be spotted at dusk and sleeps at ground level during the day, though with its colours, the camouflage is perfect!

  In Malaysia, we had the pleasure of meeting some hornbills; and here there are some different varieties. The one we spotted at Brufut was the African Pied Hornbill (Tockus Fasciatus – bottom-right). It can be spotted more along the coastal regions, less in the hinterlands, and is a shy one that isn’t often seen near habitations as is the case for his red-beaked cousin. It eats insects and fruit (it loves figs).

    After the “countryside”, at the same area as Brufut, there is Tanji, where Lamin brought us to see seabirds. Two fishing boats had just returned and there was a lot of traffic in the offloading. The senses are kicked into gear with the offloaded fish that are then sorted (hearing, smell) and with the beautiful freshly-painted boats (for the sight). For the touch, there will always be a plethora of Gambians who want to say hello by shaking your hand; and for the taste, the banana, dry fruit and herb sellers. No sense is left behind!

   There were numerous birds; and on top of the pelicans that I’ve already touched upon, there were a good number of Grey-headed gulls (Larus cirrocephalus – top-left), Lesser crested terns (Sterna bengalensis – middle-left), Waxbills…