On s'amuse de peu ...

1 – It's the A that makes me laugh

2 – Seen in Bakau, this wall tests people’s vision. Simply brilliant. Note that the E is bigger than the text below!

3 – Is he taking a nap or testing out which lot will be best for the future?

4 – Alone in the road, a red vision !

5 – The hotel gardeners decided that it was time to burn some greenery. Let us note in any case that:                       

a          .       They didn’t remove the plastic backs that contained certain rubbish.

b          .      They didn’t check the direction of the wind, leading to everyone getting smoked-up at around 17h.

c          .       “Everyone” included the President, and that they had to bring in a fire engine.

Ha, ha, ha you couldn’t make this up!

1 – Cleaning the street with the end of a stick in the middle of the day on a busy intersection.

2 – Also in the middle of the day ; a very special convoy in the middle of the road. Watch out in front… behind… and on the sides for that matter.

3 – A cracked windscreen is expensive to repair so the alternative is to place stickers, ha, ha, ha!

4 – Coming back home from school. Every transportation method is good and everyone finds their place… even standing up. Let’s hope that the driver doesn’t suddenly hit the brakes!

5 – This truck is already filled to the brim but they keep finding ways to add some more. Come on guys, only 450 boxes to go ☺

In the streets

   For seven months, there isn’t a drop of rain. Artisans therefore set up shop on the street itself.   

   It’s in Serrekunda where they are the most numerous and it’s always surprising to see the spread of seats and sofas. All trades can be found, be they ironmongers, mechanics, or, for the most part, bric à bracs.

   The other day, I went into Banjul with James, and seeing as his daughter Isatou, 4 ½ years old, had yet to go back to school, we went by to see his two children.

   When we go to Albert market, we can climb on the archway that serves as the entry. We can access it freely and there is no need for a guide. All you have to do is climb the staircase and you will arrive on this bridge with its “aerial” view over the market (bottom-right)

   When we drive around by car, we always come across donkey-pulled carts… more often than not going the wrong way. This seems to be a game here because many cyclists do the same. One day there was even a car who went a good 200m! It’s surprising and for a moment, we’re confused as to whether it is us who have taken the wrong road!!

Dog Island... take 3

   This time we are organised and we know how to cross over to Dog Island. Everything is… was… in place but a small grain of sand came to jam the mechanism that we thought was well oiled. The car that we were meant to take is immobilised and for a lunch, it’s a bit expensive to add D2500 (€55/£51/$83) for the taxi. The African boat has been booked so we decide to go round Barra anyway.

   At the hotel, Sarjo (lifeguard) has brothers in the trade and I had organised a private crossing. Expect to spend D2000 for a return journey. 

   The boat was waiting for us near the hotel’s beach and due to the level of the water, a guy “took care of us.” Pascal’s reaction (top-left) is too funny because he wasn’t aware of this: “What does this guy want with me?” he seems to say. The advantage is that you do not waste time going to the port and the crossing only lasts 20 to 25 minutes compared to the 40 minutes to 3 hours that it would take for the “ferry” on various days.

   

   The crossings are so common that the rates are of D10 (€0.25/£0.20/$0.33) for the ferry (bottom-right), D20 for the pirogue plus D5 for not getting your feet wet. However you must not mind being shoulder to shoulder with the crowd or being in an incredibly packed boat, not to mention subject to the quasi-non-existent security regulations.

   The guys still had to bail the water as there are always some small leaks. From afar (bottom-left), we enjoyed the coast, with the hotel on the right of the guy, and the president’s residency with its green and white striped building on the left. On the far left, we can see the port of Banjul.

     As is the case everywhere, there is sand, and not too much vegetation. The baobab however, thrives in this environment.

   In Gambia, there is a big culture of African boat and pirogue building. There was once the arrivals of fishermen but seeing as they would then have to cross over again to Banjul, the arrival zones for fishermen are nowadays more towards the port of Banjul or Tanji.

   Sarjo’s father is the ‘mayor’ of the area, the “Alkalo” (top-right). We went to say hello. He did not want to move to avoid the crowding because here, the moment a “toubab” talks with someone, stops on a market stall, he or she is relatively quickly encircled. He had his boat company to cross the estuary and many of his children are in the trade. He has four wives and a good number of children. Eight brothers and sisters for Sarjo, then 15, 7 and 8 with the other wives. That’s a lot of mouths to feed! Nowadays, the younger generation often only has one wife and two to four children.

   As mayor, he collects taxes and allocates “compounds” (parcels of built and unbuilt land) for a tax of D150 per year. If someone does not maintain their parcel and leaves it abandoned, the mayor has the power to take it back and to allocate it to someone else. He also acts as a conflict mediator. He remains present until each party is satisfied. If there is a problem, there can be a vote to elect a new Alkalo.

   Close to the communal wells (bottom-left), we met Sarjo’s mother and we also passed in front of his house (top-left). Each wife has her house in which she lives with her children… and eventually grandchildren and daughter-in-laws. Everywhere, the “earth” is nothing but sand; it’s crazy!

   In Barra, we noticed long lines of trucks and cars. We found out that they were queuing up to take the ferry. It’s a necessary passage to go from the North of Senegal to the South or to other southern countries such as Guinea-Bissau. Trucks can stay there, waiting, for over a week.

   That information made us less inclined to cross with our car if we would have to wait for two days to take the ferry back! We got a nice surprise when we saw a truck whose number plate was Senegalese, but whose insignia was of Guy Casset from Echelles (38 Isère, France). "Hey guys, if you’re looking for your truck, it’s ok, we found it!” It’s now living an African adventure ☺

   After abandoning James Island and founding Bathurst (Banjul), the English, who had obtained the River Gambia through the Treaty of Versailles in 1783, wanted to create a defensive zone on the other bank seeing as the canons did not shoot far enough to cover the eight miles that spanned the river. Fort Bullen was erected at Barra (top-right) around 1827. This allowed them to control all of the traffic that came and went through the River Gambia, particularly the slave trade that was still in full swing despite the abolition.

   The last photo (bottom-right) is of a Muslim cemetery.

Brufut with Lamin

   Here, we’re spoiled by the diversity of birds that we see and even if you can see them pretty much everywhere, it’s always nice to go with Lamin “bird” because he’s passionate and knows where to see the owl hiding in the tree. Also, from what I’ve seen to date, I wouldn’t go off in unknown parts without a guide. Even if they hide away because it’s hot, there is still a danger of rather impressive snakes!

   Brufut is one of Lamin’s projects that aim to help the local community to take care of their environment and particularly to bring tourists who pay D50 (€1.20/£1/£1.65) as well as a guide. The “most expensive” ones, the yellow-clad official guides in front of the hotel, are D250 for the morning or D350 for the day which comes to about €6 to €8 (£5.10 - £7.15/$8.30 - $11.65). Not very much and so very useful so as not to miss anything (more expensive at Senegambia – D400 and D800), though in this area, it’s better to have bird specialists, some of whom were trained here by Lamin.

     Brufut is a somewhat protected parcel of land. I say “somewhat” because it basically sums up to the association trying to explain to the locals the importance of preserving nature, of not trampling just anywhere, of cutting trees without consideration for the consequences, or of throwing rubbish away. On that final point, there is still work to be done when we see the number of “wild dumps.”

   I discovered a vast quantity of different birds and even those that looked like your bog-standard sparrow turned out to be a magnificent Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu (bottom, large photo). Very small and not growing over 12cm, they are of a pale blue with a touch of red on each cheek. The female’s colour is slightly less vibrant. It’s a rather common specimen that likes areas that are drier, cultivated and close to human habitations. It eats small seeds.

   I had never seen an owl in the wild. This Northern White-faced Owl was so cute (Otus leucotis – top-middle). A nocturnal bird, it spends its days sleeping amidst the branches.

   The Bearded Barbet (Lybius dubius – middle-right) can also be found in wooded areas. It’s very unique with its goatee and its beautiful black and red coat. It eats fruit.

   We also often come across butterflies, though taking a picture of them is a whole different story seeing as they are insatiable fliers (Scarlet red).

    I discovered: The African Golden Oriole (oriolus auratus – top-left), vibrantly yellow, very common and who makes hanging basket-shaped nests as the weaver bird does.

   The Little Bee-eater (Merops pusillus – top-right) is between 15 and 17cm and is very common in The Gambia. It eats insects – particularly wasps, bees or hornets – in mid-flight.  Before eating its prey, it removes the sting by hitting the insect against a hard surface.

   A bird that is impossible to spot without a pro is the Long-tailed Nightjar (Caprimulgus Climacurus – middle-right). A common bird, it can often be spotted at dusk and sleeps at ground level during the day, though with its colours, the camouflage is perfect!

  In Malaysia, we had the pleasure of meeting some hornbills; and here there are some different varieties. The one we spotted at Brufut was the African Pied Hornbill (Tockus Fasciatus – bottom-right). It can be spotted more along the coastal regions, less in the hinterlands, and is a shy one that isn’t often seen near habitations as is the case for his red-beaked cousin. It eats insects and fruit (it loves figs).

    After the “countryside”, at the same area as Brufut, there is Tanji, where Lamin brought us to see seabirds. Two fishing boats had just returned and there was a lot of traffic in the offloading. The senses are kicked into gear with the offloaded fish that are then sorted (hearing, smell) and with the beautiful freshly-painted boats (for the sight). For the touch, there will always be a plethora of Gambians who want to say hello by shaking your hand; and for the taste, the banana, dry fruit and herb sellers. No sense is left behind!

   There were numerous birds; and on top of the pelicans that I’ve already touched upon, there were a good number of Grey-headed gulls (Larus cirrocephalus – top-left), Lesser crested terns (Sterna bengalensis – middle-left), Waxbills…

They are gone.

   And there we go, the last charter flight left on Saturday, and now we enter the period of great calm. It will be strange to be in such a big and empty place. The seasonal guests have left and won’t be back until November. 

    Luckily for me, James, my walking “companion”, is still here for my regular 6 kilometres, as is Badou, a tennis coach who has been promoted to aerobics instructor. From the 80’s routines and his lack of knowledge in the subject, and from my past experience with years of dance, gym, skiing… oops I’m straying… as well as a whole range of classes in England, I try to motivate him so that he creates his own routines. On the internet, finding ideas is easy. Then, it’s a case of him choosing the movements that he likes but that are also fun and that particularly create a flow between moves. Our 1^st session bore fruit and he has already twice experimented with his routine along with the local girls who regularly come to his classes. Now he will have to create a few more and, most of all, the challenge, stick to them because here, the habits come back quicker than they go and he’s not the most dynamic and motivating person out there!! However if this works, which doesn’t really bother me, it will be very positive because as a spouse, there aren’t that many things to do and particularly, I have many skills and ideas to pass on. Let’s hope that he keeps at it. Come on, 1, 2, 3, 4, and 1, 2, 3, 4. Ah yes, we will also need to find fitting music because trying to relax on a hard beat is… not relaxing whatsoever. Then there are some pieces of music that are so fast that we seem to be chasing a train (not to mention the skipping CD LOL)

   The number of maids is reduced to the minimum and the beds will be devoid of their lovely sets. This is normal because if the number of planes that land in the country drop to near-none, then there will be very few customers. This is the case for all the hotels, lodges, etc… It will be very calm until November. Only Bruxelles Airways keeps its regular flight four times a week from Europe (Brussels-Banjul-Conakry or Freetown). The country is working on promoting The Gambia, to other African countries such as Nigeria, as a destination because it would be a change of scenery for them in any case.

   On a plus, the next season should be good seeing as more arrivals are planned than last year.

Pascal 6 - Sylvie 2 - Pa 1

   Not able to snorkel or scuba dive, we'll go fishing. 

   If we’re not going to see the fish, well we’ll catch them. At the hotel, there’s a fisherman called Pa who organises outings on the sea, in Gambia or in the mangroves. He also organises outings that are called “Lazy Day”; a relaxed day let’s say, where people have a “boat with deck” to bring together the discovery of mangrove, fishing and solariums.

   As he wanted to make us discover the area, he took us on his biggest boat (top-left). It was probably for the best because seeing the small one, going on the Atlantic would not have been good for it.

   At Denton Bridge, at the police checks, we go onto a track to the micro-port. As is the case at Lamin Lodge, a number of boats were on their sides, which was a little strange (bottom-right). Strange also were the big stakes on either side, a sight whose explanation still evades me (bottom-middle and top-middle).

   At the bridge, we spotted some people who were loading up pirogues bound for Senegal, which is relatively close. It’s impressive to see the amount that they amass onto a single ship, man or goods (top-right).

     Once again, we saw a good number of herons, egrets and other kingfishers. We took a couple of photos but we were mainly there for fishing. It’s very relaxing to make our tranquil way over the calm waters of the mangroves (top-left). We took the seat mats for a bit more comfort.

   Each on one side of the boat with our rod, we have our backs turned to one another and we don’t talk… Well me, yes I do because 10 minutes without a word is a bit difficult ☺. After a while you get accustomed to it and a sense of calm seeps through you, serenity is present and I forget to speak… for at least 15 minutes.

   For the bait, we had some magnificent shrimp, big prawns I would even say and I think that the fish under us were having a feast! More often than not, Pascal would retract his line with only the hook remaining. As for me, I learnt what I had done a little in Rodrigues and more importantly, I understood… you must be cruel. I made myself excuses by thinking that the fish was being “greedy” and had attached itself to my hook of its own accord, not because of my doing. In fact, I found out what to hook meant. When it starts nibbling, you have to give a hearty tug on the rod so that the fish is impaled on the hook. That makes the whole experience less rejoiceful ☹ and a bit harder for the conscience. Poor fish! On the other hand, the flying competition did not think twice and went for it to their heart’s content in these rich waters ☺ 

   Pascal caught the first fish and in the end, he caught the most (3 ‘somepat’, 1 ‘canava’, 1’joto’, and 1 catfish – the middle photo). I came in second with 1 ‘joto’ and 1 ‘jellynose’ who had a rather transparent snout. Pa, the pro, was very well beat with his little catfish ☺☺

   The fish were not very big in this area but we spent an excellent morning, and as we had caught a good few, the distraction was total.

Pa Foday Jammeh is based at the hotel, though here are his contact details just in case:

 Tel: + 220 729 37 85 and his email: bafodejammeh@yahoo.com

A sunday... a place

    Known for its birds, Lamin Lodge is near Banjul. From the day we arrived, we were told it was one of the places not to be missed. Looking on the internet, I found “Three-storey construction on stilts facing River Gambia’s mangrove and close to Lamin village. Essentially a restaurant, though also a starting point for multiple excursions.” “Popular destination with an excellent restaurant and an open-air oyster factory visit.”

  An exciting-sounding programme, so all aboard! The holidaymaker obviously doesn’t go alone so no worries there; though for us, finding the road was a little more complicated and we had to try our luck twice seeing as last time, we had had to take other roads, all of which were as sandy. You must ask for directions on where to turn in Lamin (under the iron archway). Then begins the track in the village (top-left). After a number of forks (unsigned, of course), we found ourselves on what seemed like a track and we had to slow down and aim right (top-right). When we left Lamin Lodge again, behind a tourist van, we noticed that there was another road so I think that we could have avoided all this gymkhana!

   The place is far from the village though a website says you could get there by foot. Well good luck with that – 25 minutes of walking under the beating sun ☼, not counting the return journey. No, no, not conceivable let’s be sound! The area is on the edge of the mangrove and boat trips are available. Good luck!

   As is the case everywhere, the moment you set foot outside the car, you are accosted by several people who surround you and want to be “welcoming and nice. Make you discover Gambia, etc…” in short, they don’t leave you in peace. As there is this “oyster factory”, it gave us a reason to accept this “close shadowing”. I accomplished my learning of one or two… but no more… bits of information on what they do to these oysters. Often a task allocated to women, it was they who pried open the shells and separated the later from the oyster. There were two sorters and …erm… one or two guys around the fires and that was about all there was in this “company.”

   Aside info from the “guide.” They don’t like having their photo taken as once, someone had printed postcards and the woman was not at her best, let us say.  Here and yes… well… that’s strange… I’ve already heard that story twice before; when we went to the market in Banjul, and when we went to Juffureh. Three times we’ve been told the same misadventure; it’s stretching the credibility somewhat, but hey, just ask their permission and when they don’t want to, there will be others who will smile for the camera. Respect their choices.

   What about the oysters then? Well the ‘animal’ is cooked for thirty minutes and is then sold on the market. As for the shells, come are put into a fire (bottom-left) for two days in order to make the lime (bottom-middle) which will be used as paint or cement. Other shells are crushed and mixed with grain to feed the poultry.

   The visit took a grand total of five minutes – also don’t expect to relax on the beach as there isn’t any. A baobab has made some art and its branches seem like they form an elephant’s head (top-right) whereas another looks like a hanging weaver-bird nests (bottom-right) which is surprising as up to now, I had never seen weaver birds in baobabs!

   Let’s go into this Lamin Lodge. The one who followed us asked permission to the guard to see if we could enter. Welcoming, it brings warmth to the heart! Actually, we knew before coming that one month beforehand, the place had been closed for sanitary and security reasons, though seeing as there’s a jetty from where there were still catamaran trips leaving (D250 for the one hour tour with drink), we wanted to go have a look.  The access to the jetty overlooking the mangrove was nice in itself and the area must have also been nice but for the moment, it was closed and much work would be needed for it to reopen. A shame because the area had a real charm and is an excellent spot for amateurs of bird-watchers and I hope to return one day with Lamin.